STEP BY STEP TO INSTALLING DRYWALL

Installing drywall can be easy, but taping the joints between panels requires some practice. Some do-it-yourselfers install the drywall themselves, then call an experienced drywall taper to finish the job.



Use T-braces to installdrywall on a
new ceiling.

Although it's easy to figure how much drywall to buy (just compute the square footage of the walls and ceiling), it takes some planning to end up with as few joints as possible. The standard-size sheets for walls measure 4 X 8 feet. They are usually installed with the long side running from floor to ceiling, but if you can eliminate a joint by placing them horizontally, do so. All drywall sheets are 4 feet wide, but many building-material outlets offer 10-foot and even 12-foot lengths. The most popular thicknesses of drywall are 1/2 inch (walls) and 5/8 inch (ceilings), but check your local building code for requirements.

Consult a dealer to learn how many nails, rolls
of tape, and how much joint compound you will need. As a general rule, 1,000 square feet of drywall requires about seven pounds of coated drywall nails, a five-gallon pail of joint compound in mixed form, and a 500-foot roll of tape.

Each outside corner requires one metal cornerbead. Drywall tape is used for inside corners. Note: Many drywallers now use drywall screws instead of nails; buy the same quantity of screws as you would nails, and consult your dealer on the length of screws necessary; it varies with the thickness of drywall. These are installed with a drill, preferably one with a drywall setting, which allows the drill to "ratchet" or slip when it senses the screw is fully seated. This prevents "popped" screw heads. Ask your dealer to show you such a drill if you don't already have one.

Hanging Drywall
To install drywall on the ceiling and walls of a framed room, you'll probably need an assistant, especially for the ceiling. Here's how to cut and install panels:

Step 1: Construct a pair of T-braces from 2 X 4s about an inch longer than the distance from floor to ceiling. Nail 2 X 4s about 3 feet long to one end of each longer 2 X 4 to form the Ts. Alternately, adjustable T-braces can be rented.




After you drive each nail in, give it an extra blow to dimple
the surface without breaking the drywall face paper.
Step 2: Cut drywall panels to size. Use a sharp utility knife along a straightedge to cut drywall. After you make the cut through the face paper, place the board over a length of 2 X 4 laid flat on the floor, or some other type of support, and snap the scored section down. The gypsum core will break along the line you cut. Then turn the panel over, cut the paper on the other side, and smooth the rough edges with very coarse sandpaper on a sanding block.

Step 3: Install drywall panels on the ceiling. If possible, try to span the entire width with a single sheet of wallboard to reduce the number of joints. Position and wedge the T-braces against the drywall sheet to hold it in place until you finish nailing it.

Step 4: Drive nails at 6-inch intervals into all the joists covered by the sheet. Start in the center of the drywall panel and work out. Give each nail an extra hammer blow to dimple the surface slightly without breaking the face paper.



It is not necessary to dimple the nails of outside cornerbead,
because the surface will be covered with drywall putty.

Step 5: When the ceiling is finished, cut and install wall panels. Carefully measure for any cutouts in the drywall, including electrical outlets, switches, or light fixtures. To make cutouts, draw a pattern of the cutout on the wallboard, drill a hole on the pattern line, and then use a keyhole saw to follow the pattern.

Step 6: Space the nails 6 inches apart along studs, but start nailing 4 inches from the ceiling. Butt the wall panels against the ceiling sheets. Dimple all nails. Nail metal outside cornerbeads to cover any outside corners.

Now it's time for the artistic part -- taping

Taping Drywall
The next step in installing drywall is covering the nails and joints, called taping. Here's how:


Step 1: Use a 5-inch-wide drywall taping knife to spread joint compound into the slight recess created by the tapered edges of the drywall sheets. Smooth the compound until it is even with the rest of the board surface.




Taping a joint means applying joint compound followed by a strip
of drywall tape, then two thin coats of joint compound.

Step 2: Center the drywall tape over the joint and press it firmly into the compound. Because some compound will squeeze out, make sure that there is still a good bed underneath. When you get the tape embedded into the compound all along the joint, smooth it with the taping knife. At the same time, fill all the nail dimples with compound.

Step 3: When the compound is completely dry (usually 24 hours later) apply a very thin second coat of compound that extends out a few inches to either side of the first coat. After the second coat dries completely, apply a third coat, this time with a 10-inch-wide taping knife, extending the compound about 6 inches to either side. When the third coat is dry, feather all the edges with a sanding block covered with medium-grit sandpaper.

To tape inside corners, including the spots where the walls and ceiling meet, cut the tape to length and fold it in half. After laying the bed of compound, press the folded tape into the compound and feather the compound out at least 11/2 inches to each side. The corners require three coats, and the last coat should extend about 8 inches to each side. Sanding is required here, too.

To finish the outside corners, install a metal corner (from your building-supply store), then apply three coats of compound that taper up to the bead. The last coat should extend the compound on each wall to about eight inches wide. Sand as with other drywall joints.

Let the walls dry for up to five days, following the recommendations of the joint compound manufacturer. Give the surface of the drywall a coat of primer made for paint or wallpaper. When the primer is dry, sand the drywall surface lightly with fine-grit sandpaper on a sanding block. Be sure to sand between each additional coat of paint with fine-grit sandpaper. New drywall should receive at least three coats: a sealer, primer, and finish coat.

Installing drywall may not be the easiest home improvement project around, but it's a lot simpler than it looks, and it can be done with help from the tips detailed in this article.

How to Remove Wallpaper HOUSE FLIP TIPS

How to Remove Wallpaper



Removing Wallpaper
Stripping off the old wall covering is usually wiser than leaving it on. New coverings adhere better to stripped-down surfaces. Depending on the wall covering and the kind of wall it's on, there are several ways to approach the job.

But you can successfully paper over old wall coverings, although it's not always a good idea, because the moisture in adhesives can cause both the old and new coverings to peel away from the wall. Also, if previous strips of wall covering have been lapped at the seams, these lap marks will show through the new covering. If you still want to paper over old coverings, as necessary, sand the seams smooth, tear away any loose strips, and re-paste loose edges around butt seams or defects before applying the new covering. If you're papering over foil or vinyl wall coverings, go over the shiny areas lightly with coarse sandpaper and then vacuum or wipe the sanding dust off the wall.

Now, if you've decided to strip off the old stuff, here are detailed instructions.



To remove strippable paper, lift up one
corner and pull the paper down the wall,
keeping as close to the wall as possible
to minimize the possibility of tearing.



Strippable Papers

Though most strippable wall coverings are characterized by smooth, plasticlike textures (including vinyl, fabric-backed vinyl, or fabric-backed paper), the only way to find out if a covering is really strippable is to try peeling it off the wall. Here's how:

Step 1: Pry the paper up in an inconspicuous corner at the top of a wall with the tip of a utility knife.

Step 2: Grasp the tip of the corner and, keeping it as close to the wall as possible, try to pull it down the surface of the wall. Pulling it toward you and away from the wall increases the likelihood of tearing it. If a covering is strippable, it should peel away from the wall when you apply steady, moderate pressure. If not, you're probably dealing with a nonstrippable paper that you will have to soak, steam, or dry-strip off the wall. Do not soak or use steam-stripping methods on drywall, though. The moisture can soften the wall's kraft-paper surface and its gypsum core. Instead, use a dry-strip method.

Slitting and Soaking

With this technique, you make horizontal slits in the surface of the old wall covering with a utility knife, a razor blade, or a special tool called a paper stripper, available at wall covering stores. The slits, made eight or ten inches apart, allow warm, soapy water or a liquid paper remover to get behind the paper and soften the adhesive so you can pull or scrape the paper off plaster walls. You can apply either solution with a sponge or a spray bottle. Caution: If you spray on a liquid paper remover, use a painters' mask to keep from inhaling chemical vapors.

Step 1: Apply the water or the paper remover and let it soak in for a few minutes.

Step 2: Do the same thing on the next strip, then go back to the first and wet it again top to bottom.

Step 3: Use a 3 1/2-inch-wide wall scraper with a flexible blade to begin stripping. Slide the blade under the top edge of one of the horizontal slits and, holding it at about a 30-degree angle, push up on the wet paper. A scraper-width section should rip along the sides of the blade and wrinkle up above it as you push.

Step 4: Continue pushing as long as the paper comes off. If the strip of scraped paper breaks, resoak that area and start scraping at another slit. If, after repeated soaking and scraping attempts, the adhesive is clearly not yielding, you'll have to use another method.

On walls made of drywall, use a paper stripper to make the horizontal slits as before, but don't wet the paper. Just slowly scrape or peel it away from the wall.



One way to remove non-strippable paper is to slit and soak it. Make slits at
eight- or ten-inch intervals; allow soapy water or a liquid paper
remover to get behind the paper and soften the adhesive.





Steaming

Many tool rental and wallpaper outlets rent electrical steamers to do-it-yourselfers. These appliances typically consist of an electrically heated water tank connected by a long hose to a steamer plate with a perforated face. Here's how they're used:



Removing old wallpaper is no easy job. You can rent a steamer, but you
still have to scrape off most of the covering with a wide-blade putty knife.



Step 1: Once the water is hot, hold the plate against the wall until you see the wall covering darken with moisture around the edges of the plate. Start on a single strip and work from the top down.

Step 2: After about half of the strip has been steamed, lift a top corner with a fingernail or a utility knife and attempt to peel the paper downward. If that doesn't work, resort to a wall scraper. You may have to steam the same areas two or three times to loosen older adhesive behind the paper.

TAX DEDUCTIONS FOR HOUSE FLIPS

If you have owned the house for 12 months or less, you will be taxed at ordinary rates on the gain. Capital gain rates only apply if you have owned the property over 12 months.

Additionally, if this is your full time occupation, you are considered a dealer and not eligible for the capital gain rate, as the houses are your inventory.
Any capital expenditures in improving the house are added to your cost basis, reducing your gain.

Hope this helps.

Uses for Vinegar: Home Improvement

The chemical properties of vinegar make it useful for many common repair and maintenance jobs around the house. Vinegar keeps painting odors at bay and can remove sticky things such as furniture glue, wallpaper paste, and adhesive decals from a variety of surfaces. This ingredient does wonders removing rust and cleaning surfaces to prepare for painting or staining.


Here are ways in which vinegar can be of help in home-improvement projects:


Painting and Staining

Metal: Before painting a metal item, wipe the surface with a solution of 1 part vinegar to 5 parts water. This cleans the surface and makes peeling less likely.

Galvanized metal should be scoured with vinegar before painting. The acidic qualities of the vinegar will clean and degrease the surface and help the paint adhere.

Odors: When applying paint of any kind, keep small dishes of vinegar around the room to absorb paint odors. Keep the dishes out for a few days, adding new vinegar each day.

Paintbrushes: Soften hardened paintbrushes by soaking them for an hour in warm vinegar. First boil the vinegar, then pour enough into a container to cover bristles. Do not soak longer than a few hours or bristles may be ruined. Wash the brushes afterward in soap and water, then allow them to air-dry before using.

Windows: When removing dried paint on glass windows, first spray the paint with warm vinegar, then carefully scrape or peel off the paint.

Walls


Adhesives: Remove self-adhesive hooks or other sticky accessories from a plaster wall by dripping vinegar behind the base of the accessory. Let the vinegar soak in a few minutes, then peel away.

Plaster: Add 1/2 teaspoon vinegar to 1 quart patching plastic to extend the amount of time you have to work with the plaster before it hardens.

Wood


Furniture: If you're trying to take apart a piece of furniture, you can dissolve the old glue by applying warm vinegar to it. Drip vinegar directly onto furniture joints using an eye-dropper. Let vinegar soak in, then carefully pry the joints apart.

Tighten up the sagging seat of a cane chair by sponging it with a 50/50 solution of vinegar and water. Set the chair out in the sun to dry.

Scratches: Combine an equal amount of vinegar and iodine, then apply the mixture to a scratch in wood using an artist's paintbrush. If you need a deep color, add a little more iodine; for lighter colors, add more vinegar.

Spots and stains: Use coarse steel wool dipped in mineral spirits to scrub a stain on a wood floor. After scrubbing, wipe with vinegar on a scrubbing sponge. Allow the vinegar to penetrate, then repeat and rinse if necessary.

Nuts and Bolts

Rust: Remove rust from nuts, bolts, or nails by placing them in a glass jar, covering them with vinegar, sealing the jar, and letting them sit overnight.

Rusty tools can be revived in the same manner. Soak them in pure vinegar for several hours, then rub away rust. Change the vinegar if it becomes cloudy before rust is softened.

HOW TO PAINT YOUR HOUSE TIPS AND GUIDES

Common Outdoor Paint Problems
Painting the whole outside of your house is a major job. But your home may not need a whole paint job. You may be able to spiff up the appearance of your home and extend the life of an entire paint job by several years with regular maintenance and some quick repairs. Whether you decide to paint a porch, the most weathered side of your house, or an outbuilding or two, the general process is the same as painting your whole house.

You'll need to clean and prep the surface, decide what type of paint to use, and apply the paint. The best time to paint is in late spring or early fall on a dry day that is not too sunny. Temperatures below 40 degrees F and direct hot sun can ruin paint jobs. Inspect your house thoroughly before you paint, and take corrective action to prevent the root causes of paint failure.


We'll hit on all the basics of exterior painting in his article, starting in this first section with how to deal with various paint problems.

Peeling

Peeling is often the result of painting over wet wood. It can also result from moisture within the house pushing its way out. If you cannot control the moisture with exhaust fans, use latex primer and latex paint. Latex allows some moisture to pass right through the paint.

Another cause of peeling is a dirty or a glossy surface. To undo the damage, all loose paint flakes must be scraped off with a wire brush and the surface must be sanded to smooth sharp edges. Bare spots should be primed before painting.

Alligatoring

This problem looks just like its name suggests: the hide of an alligator. Paint shrinks into individual islands, exposing the previous surface, usually because the top coat is not adhering to the paint below. Perhaps the paints are not compatible or the second coat was applied before the first coat had dried. To get rid of this problem, scrape off the old paint and then sand, prime, and repaint the surface.

Blistering

Paint that rises from the surface and forms blisters is usually due to moisture or improper painting. To fix the problem, first scrape off the blisters. If you can see dry wood behind them, the problem is due to moisture. If you find paint, then it is a solvent blister and is probably caused by painting with an oilbase or alkyd-base coating in hot weather. The heat forms a skin on the paint and traps solvent in a bubble.

Wrinkling

New paint can run and sag into a series of slack, skinlike droops. This occurs when the paint you are using is too thick and forms a surface film over the still-liquid paint below. It can also happen if you paint in cold weather; the cold surface slows drying underneath. To recoat, make sure the new paint is the proper consistency and be sure to brush it out as you apply. Before doing this, though, you will have to sand the wrinkled area smooth and, if necessary, remove the paint altogether.

Chalking

This is paint that has a dusty surface. Some oilbase and alkyd-base paints are designed to "chalk" when it rains. When this happens, a very fine powdery layer is removed, automatically cleaning the surface. In most cases, this is desirable. But if foundations, sidewalks, and shrubs become stained, too much chalking is occurring.

This is likely due to painting over a too-porous surface that has absorbed too much of the paint's binding agents. A chemical imbalance in an inferior paint may also be the cause of excessive chalking. The best solution is to wash down the chalking surfaces as thoroughly as possible, then paint over them with a nonchalking paint.

Mildew
This moldy growth appears where dampness and shade prevail. And, if you paint over it, it's likely to come right through the new paint. Use a fungicide such as chlorine bleach or a commercial solution to kill patches of mildew before repainting.

Running Sags

Using a paintbrush incorrectly (e.g., too much paint on the brush) can create a wavy, irregular surface. To correct it after the paint is dry, sand and repaint surface, smoothing out the new coat to an even thickness.

Paint Won't Dry

This is perhaps the best reason to buy high-quality paint. Prolonged tackiness is an indication of inferior paint. If you apply poor-quality paint too thickly or during high humidity, it will stay tacky for a long time. Good paint, on the other hand, dries quickly. If you think you may have an inferior paint, first experiment on an inconspicuous portion of the house.

Think you're ready to get started? In the next section, we'll go over the prep work you'll need to do before you begin your outdoor painting project.

How to Prep for Painting a HouseIf you're lucky, all your house may need before repainting is a good, healthy bath. Wash it down with a hose, and go over stubborn dirt with a scrub brush and warm, soapy water. Or wash it down with a power washer. If you're not so lucky, then you just have to face the fact that a time-consuming and dirty job lies ahead of you. Do the job well, and your paint job will not only look better, but it will last for five to eight years on average.

Start by thoroughly examining the outside of the house or outbuilding -- not just the exterior walls but under the eaves, around windows and doors, and along the foundation. Look for split shingles and siding, popped nails, peeling or blistering paint, mildew, and rust stains. Once you've identified the areas that need attention, roll up your sleeves and make the repairs.


Remove small areas of defective paint with a wire brush and/or a
wide-blade putty knife. Scrub under the laps of clapboard siding
and on downspouts and gutters.




Scraping

Use a wire brush and a wide-blade putty knife to remove small areas of defective paint. Scrub under the laps of clapboard siding as well as on downspouts and gutters. For speedier work on metal, a wire brush attachment on an electric drill will remove rust and paint with less effort. For more extensive paint removal, invest in a sharp pull scraper -- a tool with a replaceable blade that's capable of stripping old paint all the way down to bare wood with a single scrape. Hold the scraper so the blade is perpendicular to the wood, apply moderate to firm pressure, and drag it along the surface. Keep the blade flat against the wood so it doesn't gouge the surface.


Move an electric orbital sander up and down or back and forth to
remove old paint and feather rough edges.


Sanding

For smoothing the edges of scraped spots here and there, you can wrap a piece of sandpaper around a wood block. For larger areas, it's less tiring and more effective to use an electric orbital sander. Move it up and down or back and forth across the surface to remove old paint and smooth rough edges at the same time. Don't use an electric disc sander or a belt sander. Both can leave swirls or dips in the wood that will show through a new coat of paint.


Melting

For particularly heavy deposits of paint, heat may be more effective than muscle. One way to apply heat is with an electric paint remover, which is a device with a platelike heating element that "cooks" the paint and has a built-in scraper to pull it off. Wearing heavy gloves, hold the heating element against the surface until the paint sizzles. Pull the remover firmly over the surface. The attached scraper will pull off the cooked paint as you go.


Another way to remove old paint is with an electric paint
remover -- a device with a platelike heating element
that softens the paint and has a built-in scraper.



Liquid Paint Removers

Use liquid paint removers only as a last resort. They work well, but they're expensive, especially on big jobs. Also, they can slop onto perfectly good paint, giving you one more problem to deal with.

Priming

Once you have removed all the loose paint, you should apply an appropriate primer to some of the distressed areas, especially if your paint-removal system has exposed raw wood or bare metal. The kind of primer you use depends on the kind of paint you'll be using later. For latex paint, use latex primers; for solvent-thinned paints, use solvent-base primers; and for metals, use metal primers. Not only do these coatings provide extra protection against the elements, they also form a firm foundation for finishing paints. Also, priming is always required when you're working on new wood.

Other Prep Work

Even if you're fortunate enough to skip spot-scraping, sanding, and repriming, there are still some prepainting chores to attend to. They're much less laborious than removing peeling paint but no less vital to a successful job.

Rust stains on siding, overhangs, and foundations need to be removed. Leaks in gutters and downspouts have to be repaired. Loose caulking should be replaced, along with split shingles. Cracks in siding must be filled, sanded, and primed. Mildew must be scrubbed off, and steps should be taken to eliminate its return.

Also, to make painting easier, storm windows, screens, shutters, awnings, wall-mounted light fixtures (be sure to turn the power supply off), the mailbox, and even the street address numbers should be taken down, cleaned, and painted separately. You may even want to remove downspouts, as it's sometimes difficult to get a paintbrush behind them.


To make painting easier, remove light fixtures and other accessories.



You can typically complete all of these preparations for an entire house in a single day or over a weekend. If you're painting a porch or an outbuilding, it may only take an hour. If you're painting with latex, you can start the following day; solvent-base paint does not adhere well to moist surfaces so wait several days until all the washed surfaces are absolutely dry before applying this type of paint.

Washing

Not only will this process get the outside of your house clean and provide a dirt-free foundation for the new coating, it will also help you find surface flaws that have to be dealt with.

Depending on just how dirty the outside of your house is and on the house's size, there are two ways to approach this job. If you live in an average-size house, use a garden hose with a carwash brush attachment to bathe the big areas. For caked-on dirt, use a scrub brush or a sponge and a pail of warm water with a good, strong household detergent in it. Work from the top down, and rinse all areas where you scrubbed with water.



To remove caked-on dirt, use a scrub brush or a sponge and a pail of
warm water with a good, strong household detergent in it. Work from
the top down and rinse all areas where you scrubbed.



For bigger houses or for faster work on smaller ones, rent a high-pressure spray cleaner. This device attaches to your home's water-supply system and puts out a jet of water at a pressure of about 600 pounds per square inch. It is equipped with a handheld wand tipped with a trigger-activated nozzle. The pressure is high enough to dislodge not only stubborn dirt, mildew, stains, and dried-on sea-spray salt, it's enough to remove peeling paint. In fact, if the jet nozzle is held too close to the surface it can even peel off perfectly sound paint, split open shingles, and drill a hole in siding. So follow the manufacturer's directions and wear goggles and protective clothing.

You can use the spray cleaner while working from a ladder -- although scaffolding is better -- but practice at ground level first; the force of the spray against the house could knock you off a ladder if you're not careful. Some of these machines come with separate containers you can fill with cleaning solutions or anti-mildew solutions. Sprayers are so powerful that ordinarily you probably won't need to use a cleaning solution; if you do, remember to rinse the surface with clean water afterward.

Resetting Popped Nails

The house bath may reveal nails that have popped out of the siding or rusting nail heads that have left streaks of rust on exterior walls. If so, use sandpaper or steel wool to clean the nail heads. On clapboard siding, use a nail set to recess the nail head about ⅛ inch below the surface of the wood. Dab on a coat of rust-inhibiting primer (unless the nail is aluminum or nonrusting galvanized steel), and let it dry. Then fill the nail hole with spackle or putty. When the filler is dry, give it a coat of primer. For flathead nails, which cannot be recessed, sand the heads until they're shiny, and coat with primer.


To keep trees out of the way while you're painting, tie a rope around
the trunk, and pull the tree out away from the house. Stake the
other end of the rope out in the yard.



Covering Shrubs

Trees, bushes, and ornamental shrubs can also get in the way of your painting. Prune any branches that hang over the house or brush up against walls. Evergreen trees and tall bushes growing close to the house can be wrapped with canvas drop cloths. Tie one end of a rope around the trunk at least halfway up. Pull the top of the tree out and away from the house, and tie the other end of the rope to a stake placed farther out in the yard. Cover smaller shrubs, flower beds, sidewalks, and driveways with drop cloths to protect them from paint drips and spills.

Estimating How Much Paint You'll Need

The size of the house, the condition of the surfaces, the type of coating you select, and the method of application are all factors that will determine the amount of paint you need to buy.

Narrow lap siding, shingles or shakes, masonry, or stucco exterior walls can take 10 to 50 percent more paint than smooth, flat walls.

Airless sprayers, which apply the equivalent of two coats of paint at one time, may require twice as much paint as brushes, rollers, or pads for the same surface dimensions.

You can get more standard, premixed paint if you run out. Or, if you buy too much, many stores will give credit or refunds for unopened gallons. With custom-colored paints, however, it may be difficult to get a precise match if you run short. Calculate your needs carefully, then buy an extra gallon for insurance.

To determine how much paint your house needs, measure the house's perimeter. Then multiply that figure by the height, excluding gable ends. Take the measurements with a steel tape measure, or reel out a ball of twine around the house and mark and measure the twine. If you will use a different paint on your home's trim, subtract 21 square feet for every door and 15 square feet for each typical window. Divide the final figure by the square-foot coverage specified on the can of paint to determine the number of gallons you will need for one coat.

If your house has gables, you can estimate by just adding 2 feet to the height when making your calculations. For more precision, measure the width of the gable wall and multiply that figure by its height. Divide the final figure by 2 to determine the gable's square-foot dimensions.

For trim paint, the rule of thumb is 1 gallon for every 6 gallons of wall paint. To be more accurate, you'll have to figure the areas of doors, windows, and shutters. For gutters, a linear foot is about equal to a square foot, so for 50 feet of gutter, buy sufficient paint to cover 50 square feet.

Now you're ready to start painting.



How to Paint Siding and Trim
A Guide to
Exterior Paint

When painting or your home, it's important to select the right coating for your situation. With the surface preparations out of the way, you're almost ready to brush, roll, or spray on a new coat of paint. First, because paint colors tend to vary slightly from batch to batch, mix all the paint together in one or two large containers. Leftover paint should go back in the original paint cans and be resealed.

Plan your painting day so you follow the sun, working in the shade after the sun has dried off the early morning moisture. Try not to let the setting sun catch you in the middle of an exterior wall at the end of the day. If you have to stop, try to finish painting an entire course of siding all the way across the house. Otherwise, you may leave lap marks in the middle of the course.



At the sides of window and door casings, jab your brush into joints,
then smooth out the paint.


Also, plan to paint high places in horizontal sections across the top of the exterior wall. Never lean away from an extension ladder or reach more than an arm's length to either side. Paint one high section, move the ladder, and paint another, creating a painted band as you go. Repeat the process all the way across the exterior wall. Then, lower the ladder to work on a lower section. An extension ladder can be perilous. Make sure it's on firm footing about one-quarter of its length out from the foundation of the house. Also make sure it doesn't tilt to the left or right. Always check both extension hooks to ensure they are firmly locked on the supporting rungs. The two sections of the ladder should overlap at least three rungs. When moving the ladder, watch out for power lines. Here's another tip: Hang your paint bucket on a rung with an S-shape bucket hook so you can hang onto the ladder with one hand while painting with the other.

If your house has dormers, you may have to paint them from the roof instead of a ladder. If so, the ladder should reach at least 3 feet above the edge of the roof so you can step onto the roof without standing on the top rungs of the ladder.



A corner roller makes short work of the undersides of shingles or clapboards.


When painting either clapboard or shingles, pay special attention around door and window casings. At the top of each casing you'll find a drip cap or metal flashing that tucks up under the siding. Paint a tight seal between metal and wood. At the sides of the casings, jab your brush into joints, then smooth out the paint to seal them. At casings and for the undersides of siding laps, you may prefer to use a corner roller. Before dismounting and moving the ladder, check your work for drips, runs, thin areas, and missed spots.

Painting Trim

Painting exterior trim means you're making progress and the job is winding down. Unfortunately, painting trim is a slow process that consumes a considerable amount of time, even if you apply the same color used on the siding. Diligence and patience in dealing with these details pays off. If done carefully and thoroughly, trim painting will keep your house looking fresh and protect it from the elements for a long time. Here are some tips to make the job easier:


When painting exterior trim, work from the top down; gables, dormers, eaves and gutters, second-story windows, porches and stairs, and foundations. If you don't want to mask around window panes, use a paint shield as you work. Scrape off any spatters and drips later.


If you've replaced the caulking around doors, windows, and joints, make sure caulking is dry before painting over it. Use enough paint to form a tight seal between the siding and the trim to keep out moisture, wind, and insects.


Paint exterior windows, sashes, sills, and jambs in the same order as the interior ones, working from the sashes out to the frames. Be sure to pay close attention to the windowsills. They bear the brunt of rain, snow, and accumulated dirt. If the windowsills look particularly weather beaten, take the time to give them two or even three coats of paint, including the underside edges.


Screens and storm windows should be removed and painted separately. If the screens have holes, this is a good time to mend them or replace the screening. If the screening is sound but needs painting, coat it first (using a pad applicator), then paint the frame. Don't forget to do both sides and all edges of screens and storms.


Doors are easier to paint if you remove the knobs, latch plates, and door knocker. If possible, also remove the door from its frame, lay it flat, and paint one side at a time, working on recessed panels first, then raised areas. Sand the bottom and top edges, then apply a thin coat of paint to keep out moisture and prevent rot. While the door is open or off its hinges, paint the jambs and the frame and give the wooden threshold a coat of urethane varnish. Do not paint the hinges.


When painting an exterior door, paint the panels first, then the rails,
the stiles, and finally the edges, working from top to bottom.


Gutters and downspouts made of galvanized metal should be scraped with a wire brush to remove loose paint and then primed and painted again. On downspouts, paint in the direction of the flutes, usually up and down, to prevent runs, drips, and sags. Because some downspouts are flat on all four sides and are attached closely to the house, you may want to take them down to paint them. Consider coating the inside of gutters with an asphalt-base paint, which waterproofs the gutters and seals tiny holes and joints.


For railing and ornamental metal work, use a lamb's wool mitten
applicator instead of a trim brush.



On ornamental metal work and porch railings, use a lamb's wool applicator instead of a trim brush. The mitten applicator, which can be used on either hand and is cleanable and reusable, allows you to grasp a railing support, smearing on the paint as you move your hand from top to bottom.
Painting your house can be a big job, but the task isn't difficult. Take the time to do it well, and it will reward you by lasting for many years.

Does you job require a permit? HOUSE FLIP TIPS

Does you job require a permit?

Thinking about a home improvement project? My muncipalities require permits for many types of home improvement projects. These codes are in place for safety of all and take into consideration local conditions, (such as hurricane zones, earthquake zones, snowloads in northern regions, etc. which must be taken into account during the planning phase of your project. To aid you in your planning I suggest you browse over to The Permit Place From here you'll be able to find out what type of permits are required for your region and who to contact about them.

It's also important to consider what's beneath your yard before you start digging and post holes, footers, etc. Every state has a different phone number to call fo this, but if you will do a google search with the terms "call before you dig & Your State" You'll find the link to the approriate local agency, many allow you to register your dig on-line and nearly all have toll free phone numbers. Warning, failure to follow established procedures will in most cases leave you or your contractor liable for any damages which may occur to underground utilities not to mention possibly be hazardous to your health!!

Another reason, for taking the time to pull permits for remodeling and additions (a deck is an addition to the structure) is prevent future headaches if and when you should choose to sell your property. Items that don't meet code will be on the home inspector's hit list of items that will devalue your property.

Work safe, follow the rules & codes, you'll be glad you did.

GETTING A CONSTRUCSTION ESTIMATE....TIPS AND GUIDES

What is an estimate? What is included in this estimate and where do these costs come from?

Estimate - a list of material and other costs directly and indirectly associated with the construction of your home.

Direct costs will be items such as lumber, concrete, and labor. These items are things that will be permanent fixtures in the home, or such things that will have been done to complete the construction.

Indirect costs will be items that the builder charges to keep the business running. Indirect costs can be broken down into overhead and profit. Profit is what the contractor charges for their knowledge, experience, and management ability. Overhead will pay for the contractors' phones, power for the office, office staff, payroll service, etc.

Advertise
Typically, a homeowner will have gone to an architect to design the plans or gotten them from a plan service. I suggest using an architect as they will help you make changes to the plan and can assist in advertising for bids. Often, when advertising for bids, a listing in the local newspaper will be sufficient, but if several contractors in the area are well known you may call them and ask if they would like to bid on the project. In my honest opinion, this is the best method. This will give you the option to choose whoever you want. Also ask them if they can fit you in their schedule, this is important due to the fact that if they have lots of work, they will bid higher to cover the extra costs they will incur to complete your home. The architect should also provide you with a base cost for the project that you can compare with the bids for accuracy. Do not, I repeat, DO NOT take the lowest bid just because it's the lowest.

Interviewing

After receiving the bids, pick several of them based on track record, cost, and professionalism and then interview with them, interview all of them if you have time. One point to remember in the bid sheet, do not stipulate when or how the bid will be awarded, instead state something to the effect of, "Bids will be opened on Month, Day, Year and bids will be awarded after an interview process has been completed." You can get some good ideas in differences of building techniques and design during the interviews. Many times a homeowner will just pick the lowest bidder and end up with someone that they are incompatible with. This is very important, if you can't deal with the contractor you will not have a pleasant experience during construction. Do not cull a bid because it is more expensive than the others, they may have seen a problem area that the others did not see and are covering for it. This will usually become apparent during the interview process.

Accuracy

Another item when comparing the bids, make sure the contractor has bid for what you wanted them to bid for? Did they include your Viking model cooktop or did they substitute it for a lesser model or brand? The problem that arises when substitutions are made that you were unaware of is a change order. Change orders make for bad business relationships. Don't get me wrong, there will always be change orders but they should be kept to a minimum. When substitutions are made the homeowner does not get an accurate estimate of final project cost, it will be a final project cost without all the change orders, which add up quickly. This is how many contractors get jobs, they bid the lowest quality items and then change order everything back up to the original product. They show you a very low cost but when it's all said and done you end up paying just as much as if you had taken the highest bidder.